If you come to Australia and do one trip, don’t do it in Australia -- just go to New Zealand. Okay, obviously we’re kidding -- there is so much to do and see in Australia -- but if there was one trip the Permanent Holiday team enjoyed most, it was New Zealand. New Zealand is a naturally beautiful, largely untouched country, filled with nice people (Kiwis), extreme activities, incredible hikes and a widespread backpacking culture.
We spent two weeks traveling around both islands, but recommend spending at least two weeks on the South Island alone. While we think we hit most of the top spots in this timeframe, we definitely missed a few, such as Lake Tekapo and the Bay of Plenty; consider the below a (strong) starting point from which to plan your trip.
If you are short on time, however, focus your efforts on the South Island, which we found to be much more enjoyable and scenic. The North Island has its spots, particularly the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, but is mostly outshone by its southern sibling.
Renting a car is the best way to get around, especially if you are traveling with a couple friends, as it allows for flexibility in planning out your activities. You can transfer your rental car between islands via the ferry from Picton to Wellington or vice versa, but be warned that our ferry was delayed almost six hours so build in some wiggle room. Campervans are a popular option but are significantly more expensive. If your traveling alone or just don’t want to drive, the Kiwi Experience bus is a popular and stress-free way to travel while making new friends. Check out the map (left) to see the route we took.
In terms of accommodation, it’s fairly hard to go wrong, as decent hostels are everywhere. Read a few reviews before booking and you’ll be fine. Free couch surfing is also wildly popular through couchsurfing.com and is probably best suited to New Zealand over any other country, as the Kiwis are by far the nicest people we’ve met.
North Island
Auckland
Auckland is really just another city. We only visited because we had flights out of here, which is likely the reason you’d visit too. There are so many other places to see in New Zealand that we’d advise spending no more than a night here and only if you have to. That being said, Airbnbs here are cheap and can be a good way to repack/chill out before your next adventure.
Hobbiton
Deciding whether to visit Hobbiton really comes down to how much you like Lord of the Rings. If you’re a big fan, then it may be worth it to spend a day pretending your Frodo or preferably Samwise Gamgee. Tours of the Shire cost NZD $79 and last about two and a half hours.
Waitomo
The Waitomo glowworm caves were a sight to see, with the worms lighting up the caves to mimic the night sky, and are a great way to break up the long drive north from Taupo to Auckland (Waitomo is located near Hamilton on the featured map). We chose the NZD $91 three hour glowworm caves and Ruakuri cave tour combo with Discover Waitomo, but found the two hour Ruakuri cave section quite boring. Instead, either stick solely to the NZD $51 glowworm cave tour or pay NZD $142 for the three hour Black Labyrinth underground rafting adventure, in which you’ll wind through a subterranean world with just a tube, wetsuit and headlamp. We couldn’t see the tubers, but we definitely heard their excited shouts!
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Without a question, this hike was our favorite part of the North Island. The 19.4 km trek winds through volcanic alpine terrain, highlighted by aquamarine crater lakes and views of Mount Ngauruhoe, otherwise known as Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings. You’ll rapidly gain over 700 meters of elevation before settling in for a long descent from the Crossing’s highest point, Red Crater at 1,886 meters. The environment is shockingly different to that of the South Island, but if there is one downside to the walk, it’s the amount of people on it when compared to the South Island’s equally famous tracks.
To access the hike, stay in nearby Taupo (an easy hour drive) and drive to the Ketetahi car park before hopping on a NZD $30 shuttle to the Alpine Crossing start point. Since the hike ends at the Ketetahi car park, you can head out immediately upon finishing. Expect the walk to take from five to eight hours.
South Island
Christchurch
If you’re flying from Australia, flights are often cheapest going direct into Christchurch, New Zealand’s third largest city. The city itself doesn’t have much going on, with most of its notable activities at least an hour outside the city. However, its location makes it a good place to rent a car and start your New Zealand journey. If you are in Christchurch a few days, Bridle Path and Godley Head are two notable hikes in the area. Just be careful, Christchurch is an earthquake hotspot and was devastated by quakes in both 2010 and 2011.
Dunedin
New Zealand’s take on a classic American college town, Dunedin hosts the country’s second largest university, giving the place a young and hip vibe. A popular drinking town for backpackers, Dunedin is the town a lot of people describe as their best night out. That being said, while it is a fun place to stay, the point of your New Zealand trip is not to drink, but to experience nature. To this end, explore the beaches of the Otago Peninsula and drive your car onto the beach for a swim (just be careful you don’t get stuck...like we did). This is also a popular wine region so taste some wines and have a sophisticated day!
Perhaps most importantly, though, Dunedin is one of the main points on the Southern Scenic Drive, which connects Dunedin, Invercargill, Te Anau and Queenstown. The drive is gorgeous, with tons of cool spots to stop at on the way, and hits New Zealand's most iconic natural features and towns.
Invercargill
There is not much going on here unless you’re going to Stewart Island or stopping on the way to the Milford Sound. We spent the night here before continuing on to Te Anau because the drive from Christchurch to Invercargill is around 12 hours.
Te AnAu
Like most of New Zealand's Te Anau is nothing special, but is a must-visit due to its proximity to Milford Sound and the Fiordland National Park, which showcases the uniqueness of New Zealand’s natural beauty. The town is backpacker and hiker friendly so it’s really easy to get a quick breakfast and coffee before you set off on one of the many possible hikes in the area. While you should keep your trip fluid, we recommend you book a hostel in Te Anau early because there is limited lodging here.
MIlford SOund
The Sound is probably the most picturesque/most photographed spot in all New Zealand (which is saying something). Tucked away in the Fiordland National Park, it offers a beautiful, tranquil look at the impact of glaciers in the surrounding area. There are no hikes that are associated with the Sound itself, but you can take a 20 minute walk to get a full view of the entire area. The drive out there is something in itself, with many different photo opportunities and hikes along the way. Unless you have a boat tour at the Sound, don’t rush to get over there; you’ll have plenty of time to view the Sound and should spend the extra time at lookout spots along the way.
At the actual Milford Sound, the most popular activity is to either take a cruise or kayak through the Sound. You can even rent your own kayak and bring it to the Sound to save a little money. There are many different options for seeing the sound, but we recommend booking in advance because most of the tours leave early in the morning. One of the big advantages to taking a cruise or kayak tour is an up-close view of Stirling Falls, a massive, roaring waterfall. While you still get to see the falls on the walk, you will see it in a completely different light up close. As mentioned, stay in Te Anau for easy access to the Milford Sound and Fiordland National Park.
Routeburn Track
Ah the big one. This 32 km (20mi!) hike is commonly done over the course of two to three days, your boys are #StrongLads and did it in one! While most guides recommend a multiday hike, it comes down to personal preference and fitness level. If you’re not up for a long hike (nine hours and 20 minutes to be exact, though locals run it in under three!), split it up over a few days. Keep in mind, though, that on-track lodging is sparse and you will almost certainly have to book a spot weeks or months in advance. Regardless of whether you do it in one day or several, Routeburn is 100% worth it, as it offers some of the best (and most rewarding) views in New Zealand. This is probably the most popular hike you’ll encounter in the entirety of the country and offers a sense of isolation that is almost unmatchable in easily accessible walks.
If you plan on doing the hike in one day, you’ll have to pay for a car transfer, as the hike itself is not round-trip and busses probably won’t be running by the time you finish. You can park at The Divide and hire a company to drop your car off at the Routeburn Shelter, where the trek concludes. From here, it is just a two hour drive to Queenstown. There are only a few companies that offer the transfer and EasyHike is the most popular. Make sure to tell them you’re doing it in a day when you call because they will always assume you’re doing it in more. Just a head’s up: people will tell you you’re crazy for doing this hike in one day, but don’t listen. It was only foreigners who seemed shocked, while Kiwis we met responded with a “good on ya.”
Be sure to check the forecast, which we forgot to do, because it is brutally cold when raining. Dress in layers (rain jacket, pants, water-resistant clothes if you have them, though we didn’t and it was pouring yet we survived) and bring tons of snacks because it is going to be a long, yet rewarding day.
Queenstown
The self-proclaimed adrenaline capital of the world, Queenstown does not disappoint. From skydiving and bungee jumping to rafting and downhill biking, there is always a heart-stopping activity to take part in. Queenstown is also a backpacker mecca, despite its small permanent population, and a party can be found any night of the week. The town is always bustling and situated in the shadow of gorgeous mountains and on a pristine waterfront. In the winter months, Queenstown becomes a ski town with several ski resorts nearby.
If you’re looking for that near-death thrill, check out the Nevis Bungy Jump, the tallest in New Zealand. For a summertime skiing alternative, rent a downhill bike from Vertigo Bikes and purchase a half or full day pass to the Skyline bike park, which offers some of the most challenging downhilling terrain in the world and incredible lake views. We spent three days in Queenstown, but could easily have spent three more. Because Queenstown is so popular with backpackers, we recommend booking a hostel at least a week or two in advance.
Franz Josef Glacier
Franz Josef, a small town on the West Coast, is another popular spot to visit on the South Island. The famous Franz Josef Glacier is situated in the nearby mountain peaks and is surrounded by rainforest. In recent years, the glacier has become too unstable and dangerous to climb without taking a helicopter to its more stable regions. These tours will cost around NZD $459 on average so we decided to avoid the helicopter tour and do a day hike that provides a decent, but unspectacular view of the glacier from afar. If a helicopter tour fits into your budget, then we 100% recommend visiting Franz Josef. Otherwise, Franz Josef is probably not worth visiting. Instead, check out Lake Tekapo or Mount Cook (which we missed), just a few hours away. There is one bar in town called “Monsoons” where the Permanent Holiday team had an interesting night, but we’ll leave it at that.
Marlborough Region
If you plan on traveling between the two islands, Marlborough is a good stop if time permits. World famous for its wines, the Marlborough Region is located at the northern point of the South Island. If you are interested in doing wine tastings, there are several tour options. We recommend doing a tour by bike (we did tandem bikes for a better deal) through Wine Tour By Bike. From there, you can easily get around to numerous wineries in the area, riding through vineyards and into the tastings.